First off, please forgive the absence around here lately…been mostly underground working on the Fall Collection and trying to keep up (thanks to all!) with Spring orders. A huge project for me has been expanding Rider Boot into some additional constructions and options. Some of my long-time clients may remember the work I did with Borgioli years ago at Franco’s, and I have always felt that the patterns I did with them on Treccia (most here would call it Norvegese construction) Construction were some of the best shoes I’ve ever done. Well, during my trip to Italy last month I took a train down to La Stella (Tuscany) to catch up with my friends at the factory. It didn’t take long for us to get on the same page and plan out some joint work for Rider Boot. A few different things on the agenda that I will work thru during the next couple of months, but first up I went back to the well and did my favorite construction in a Shell Cordovan Chukka boot:
True Treccia Construction involves a tremendous amount of work, time, skill and, by default, top quality materials. The special feature here, obviously, is the three thread interwoven stitch you can see above the weltline on the upper. This is visually interesting, for sure….but the real magic is what you cannot see – the connection between the leather insole and the upper (in this case shell cordovan from Horween in Chicago) done in one graceful, and complicated, step. Further, you will notice the upper is ‘turned out’, or what we call Norvegese, and stitched down with a seperate stitch thru the welt/sole combination. I expect to be back at the factory in the next couple of weeks and will try to post a more detailed essay (with pictures) on this work from start to finish, but in the meantime……the Treccia Chukka:
note - I will be debuting this sample, and the entire Borgioli for Rider Boot planned range, at the May Trunk Show with Leffot in NYC. This item will be available as a MTO style where different materials, colors, thread, sole finishing, etc. can be chosen individually. Prices are far from being finalized at this moment, but the shell cordovan sample pictured here will be right around $2200.00.