Spent a little time this week re-working a pair of shell cordovan boots that has been thru the ringer, it appears. There are a lot of opinions out there on what is the best way to polish/clean shell cordovan, and there really is no ‘best’ way, IMO. Much of it depends on the finish that the factory that made the shoe or boot uses – not just how the material itself is tanned and finished in Chicago. Besides, there is a fairly large difference in the shells from the delivery to delivery…..it’s not plastic, so what works for one might not be as nice for another. This, however, is how I usually do it:
Arrived -
First step is to brush them off, and then a good bath with Renomat -
Next step is a couple of wipe downs with Saphir Regenerant (a cleaner….sponge it on, let it dry, wipe it off) -
After that I make a mix of Renovateur and Cream and brush it on -
After 2 coats of that mix, plenty of brushing and a hard cloth buffing, it’s time for 2 coats of wax (I use Neutral….shell really doesn’t absorb much, if any, color) -
Usually, they turn out well…..and it’s really not hard at all. For everyday maintenance, a simply brushing will do the trick.
-Ron










March 25, 2012 at 11:39 pm
Glad to see you “blogging” with recent posts. I appreciate your knowledge and expertise- as well as my Rider Boot purchases!
I will look forward to keeping up with what is happening with Rider Boots!
March 27, 2012 at 9:34 am
Cheers Alan!
March 31, 2012 at 9:02 am
Thanks Ron,
I was wondering how I should care for those gunmetal balmoral boots I got a while back from Franco’s
Ian
March 31, 2012 at 10:23 am
Hi Ian -
Thanks for the note…hope you’ve been well. For Gunmetal shell, or any shell really, I would use very light coats of Renovateur or the Creme Universelle as a routine, and one every 6 months or so the process I detailed here. I also use the Neutral wax every now and again. Very light coats! Shell can be tricky….the material does not absorb moisture, so often times water gets in between the top coat (what the factory, or the owner, applies) and the shell itself, and the water ‘bumps’ or marks show up. Very similar to what you see on a shellacked piece of furniture. Water vapors get trapped between the wood and the finish, making those rings. It’s the same process here to fix – melt the top coat and reapply.
Hope that helps -
Ron
September 25, 2012 at 12:35 pm
Ron – A belated thanks for this post. I actually have a pair of shell boots from you that are in nearly identical condition as the ones above. I’m going to give them a go soon, but want to confirm that standard saddle soap (Kiwi or the like) will do in lieu of the Saphir Regenerant, which seems hard to come by in the States.
cheers,
Amit