hi Ron, In general what is the price range for the cordovan boots? Also, I asked a question on AAAC about using Saphir Reneveteur on cordovan, how long have you been using it and do the solvents cause any problems with the finish of the shoes over time? Thanks.
$675 for the SC Chukka Boots
$700 for the SC Wingtip Boots
With-in the next 2 weeks I should have the exact delivery from Italy, as well as the exact opening leather/color list with details. We just received 40 shells in our custom color #6 from Horween, and we found a dozen or so shells in either whiskey or natural so we are still deciding exactly what we can get here in April and what we will use on the Fall delivery.
For the Renoveteur, been using it for some time now…..6 months, I guess. I start with a mixture of that and the appropriate color cream, mix and apply lightly. After some set-up time I brush and then use some Bemberg linings I had laying around to buff….I have used denim for buffing as well.
Unfortunately, I am not able to do EEEE. I do accept special orders, and can also make some minor adjustments to fit, but the factory does not have any EEEE lasts in stock, so I cannot help. Maybe some day, but not at this moment – I am sorry. I appreciate you looking in though –
I guess I didn’t pay attention to you switching companies. I guess you’re aren’t the Martegani’s rep and focusing on Riderboot company. BTW, I love the design. Is Franco the only store to carry your new line?
No – still the Market Manager for RM as well….just adding a hat to the rack. Rider Boot is something I wanted to do for awhile, and when we started getting some Shell for Martegani, we discovered that there was no way we could dependably wholesale, as the supply is so ‘select’. So, it gave me the perfect opportunity to start.
Yes, Franco’s Short Pump shop (and website) is the stocked location.
For Saphir, I use a mix of Renoveteur and #03 (Light Brown – more yellowy, really) and apply VERY lightly. I take a dixie cup and mix in 10 parts Renoveteur to 1 part Cream….not the Saphir wax. Almost immediately I start to buff with a brush, and then I go over it with a piece of Bemberg lining (and old tie will do) to build up some heat and finish.
I’m a regular Martegani wearer. I have an 11.5 B foot but find Martegani’s in an 11 to fit like a glove. I’m interested in the RBWB2′s. Might I expect a similar fit? I’d order through Franco’s of course.
Depends which style…..do you remember which last, or shoe, you have? Let me know either here, or via mail, and I will advise. If it is 3B, I would add 1/2 size….most others, stick with 11. The ‘B’ throws me a bit, but if you wear Martegani in 11 I will work off of that.
Sure, that can be done – on both counts. There is a $125 up-charge for single pair specials, but after that we can accomadate this request. Please contact me via mail and we can continue, if you would like a quote.
Our stock is in Richmond, VA and available to view/fit at Franco’s Fine Clothier’s Short Pump location. Our main channel of sells is via http://www.francos.com, and I am happy to consult via mail or phone regarding the fits, details, etc. Please send me a note when you are ready, and I can explain further.
yes, 14 is no problem….not a stock size as of yet, but can be made as a special at your convenience.
Hmmm – can’t go down, but we can use a 13 last and make it longer. The stock adjustment is not a full 1/2 size though….more like an ‘in-between’ size, so I would call the result more like 13 1/4. I might very well have a 13 1/2 last though….the factory has an account in Bologna that carries only large sizes and likes the 1/2′s above 12. If you would like to learn more, send me a private mail and we can continue.
Looing for a pair of pennystraps in natural shell. I buy Alden now in size 10.5C. what size should I buy. The “C” helps with my somewhat narrow heel and thin foot. My width at the ball of my foot typically is a “D”. How do I order?
In this case, I would recommend 10. It’s always a bit of a challenge since we do not do the ‘in-between’ widths, but each last has it’s own fitting characteristics and a ‘C’ in one last might very well be exactly the same girth as a ‘D’ in another…even inside of the same manufacturer. For last 86, my clients have ordered 1/2 size down as a routine, and we have 4 that own both the chukka’s and the penny, and 1/2 size down is correct fit. The ‘thin foot’ comment is a bit of a concern, but there is no problem trying and returning if it does not work for you, obviously. In the end, a shoe on the foot is the only true measure of fit.
You can order here, if this is interesting to you:
Your cordovan Venetian took my breath away. Can you do it in a black Cordovan? I wrote a post on Florscheim bringing back their Venetian and the NYC store manager told me they did a Cordovan in the Yuma in ’93 or so. Your’s in oly missing the beef roll on the sides. Does it have the roll on the back? Most impressive site and blog.
Unfortunately, it appears as if we have run out of time for this seasons delveries/production, and we will have to wait on the Venetian until Spring. I have the last shipment (which I will update soon) leaving Italy this week, and then we are ‘selling’ until Spring – no more leaving at this time, as I think January is not a good time to receive new merchandise.
I am interested in the Whiskey shell cordovan or the Dark Cognac calf. I would like to be able to try on the chukkas. I usually wear an 11 D. I live in Los Angeles, CA. I also would like a danite sole rather than a leather sole. Which last has a more italian shape as opposed to a heavy rounded shape toe. I prefer a longer lower profile boot. I have been thinking about the Alden Plaza last Chukka with a commando sole. Thanks, Tony.
Thanks for the note! I do not wholesale the line…it is available here in Richmond, or via the internet/mail. I have no problem, obviously, sending the sizes to verify fit….it’s expected and, for serious inquires, routine. I really wouldn’t say any of my boots feature a stereotypical ‘Italian’ last shape – I am interested in Classic lasts here…..4A (RBCB1) would be the most elegant, IMO.
Can’t help much with Alden’s lasts – have never sold them, or have any relation to the factory, sorry.
Just saw that you have a sale on calfskin chukkas. Can you make a recommendation on appropriate last and size, considering I fit an Alden Barrie last, 10.5 C/E (heel/forefoot, if I’m not mistaken), and Allen Edmonds Park Avenue 10.5 E is a little tight in the width. I’m guessing the 95 will be a better fit. I think a Brannock fit suggested 11 D-E, but the AE Park Ave. in 10.5 E were too long and too tight… Are measurements of foot tracings of any use?
Thanks for looking! Really, foot tracings are of little use, as they cannot indicate volume. From what I am told by my clients who also wear Alden, I would suggest the 95 last Chukka’s in 11 from me….95 runs on the wide side, and I would have to say that the 4A last will be too narrow from this description of your foot/fit. Park Ave. typically fits on the long, narrow side, so the Alden reference is probably better here. There is no ‘final sale’ or anything, so I would suggest you try, if interested, the RBCB4 (95 last) option and see the fit. Thanks again….please feel free to contact me directly via mail or phone for more information.
I’ve seen on sale the chukka boot in brandy scotch grain shell.
Being correct the size 10M on last 88 on penny loafer, do you think correct the same size on last 95 of chukka boot?
Another question. The boot is on Tirolese (storm) welt. Therefore, there would be no blake sewn visible inside the shoes. There would be the goodyear sewn on the feather under the insole. Am I right?
Happy New Year! I am glad you liked the loafer in Shell. For this question, I can say that I wear 9 in 88 last (and it’s a little big) and 9.5 in 95 last, which ends up perfect. This would be typical, as 88 last runs very large as we discussed.
For the construction, NO, this is still Blake/Rapid construction – we do not offer Goodyear method. The process of sole work is the same here as always, but with the addition of the Tirolese rand on top of the midsole…..to clarify for all, the perofrated leather insole is Blake stitched to the full leather midsole and then the Tirolese (Storm) Welt is layed on top and the Rapid stitcher is used to stitch thru the welt/midole/Sestriere outsole. So, you have two distinct stitches – one inside and one outside.
Well Ron, thanks for the quick response and happy new year to you.
please can you post, via p.m., a pic of the size 10.5, so to see no crease on the vamp, with the external misure taken on the sole?
Last question. What about the parternship with De Tommaso regarding goodyear and norwegian construction. I know this shoemaker to be very skill.
The “blend” with your shell cordovan and their stichting would be amazing.
We were not able to work any success with a shared line….I agree about DeTommaso but I failed to develop this work; they are quite good. We actually found a family who did this type of work near our factory in Giussano, but last season they closed up and opened a gelato stand! More money in this than shoe work, I suppose……talk next week – thanks.
Hmmmm…..that sounds pretty difficult – 10A to 9.5D?? To go from a 10A to a 9.5D…doesn’t click with me. I suppose if you were curious to see, and wore a thick sock with boots you could give the RBCB1 or RBCB2 a go and see if we get lucky, but if you really are an A, I doubt that will happen, honestly. For me, we do not do A or B width very well…..wide, extra wide, raise the instep, make something wider at the ball only, etc., no problems….narrow widths – not so much. If you’d like to give one a go, please let me know via email or phone and I’ll be happy to get a package to you with a return label.
HI Henry – thanks for the note! Unfortunately, no…..we have tried to develop a narrow adjustment to existing lasts, but the results have been less than satisfactory, so I have not accepted an order for a B or narrower width since. Until I arrive at the point that I can order an entire run of B lasts, I will have to pass – sorry!
Thanks for the note! No, not at this time….I am adding it in #8 Shell Cordovan (have received a couple of sizes in already) but not #6 at this time. Remember, my #8 is not as dark as the US #8 you might be familiar with….the #8 I have received so far are 90% the same color as the existing #6. Kind a surprised me, but each delivery is a little different, for sure. You can see here: http://www.francos.com/items/item.asp?sku5=59539
I’ve just been referred to your site as I’m looking around for a pair of balmoral boots in black. My major difficulty is sizing as I take a US14/UK13 size. Can you get back to me on whether you can assist or not?
Thanks for the note! Yes…size 14 is no difficulty whatsoever. It would be a MTO item, but we can do. I have 14 trial fits available to prove the size and then, if you accept, we can order the boots you like. Please let me know -
Thanks for the note – yes, a 13E can be had as a MTO. There is an up-charge of $100 for this and we have two options…..a) standard E width [ball,instep,girth] or b) wider at ball only. Please feel free to give me a call at the shop (804-264-2994) to discuss further….thanks again!
I read on your website that you are sometimes over at Franco’s and available to customers. What days and times are you there? I am a law student in Virginia Beach and plan to visit Franco’s after exams to look at his shoe selection and hopefully fill in a few gaps in my professional wardrobe. Specifically I was looking at the Martegani Classic pennystrap slip-on with handstitched toe seam on 42 last. With that said, I am still a novice concerning shoes, and would love the chance to speak with someone as knowledgeable as yourself and to inquire about customization options on some of the shoes/boots you represent.
Hello Mr. Rider,
my name is Zach and Ive met you before when you and your wife came into the Levis store. I have a strong interest in quality made footwear and would love to learn more about it. Id like to talk to you sometime. Thanks
Thanks for the note. No, not in the first run anyway….perhaps in the second (Spring ’11). Scheduled for October delivery is the Cognac and Bordo. As long as the interest is there, we will add black calf in the Spring.
I really like your products and I think you do fantastic work. I was wonder what size I would wear for your shoes if I wear Alden 6D on the Plaza and Aberdeen last. I’m looking to have a pair of wingtip derbys similar to the RL Darltons made.
Thanks for the note. Unfortunately I have not made too much progress in the UK. I hope to make a visit there during this year to see a couple of shops I have been in contact with, but nothing definite yet. I’m left to work via Post and long distance right now. Happy to try to help directly if I can….thanks!
Thank you very much for your kind reply.
I am a cosumer.
But I would like you to talk to one your distribution to send me your catalogue and price list and leather sample and more if you have.
And I would like you to let me know matching shoes size, my size is US6.5D in Alden, UK6E in Edward Green.
Thank you very much for your quick reply.
I am confused yet.
But I would like you to let me know how I can buy shoes of “Rider Boot” from USA or England and my matching size, because my size is very little and Japanese retailers don’t deal only a few models.
And I want a catalogue and more if you have.
Ok, now I am confused. I am not Shige, and don’t know how this ended up as a reply. Anyway, for the Rider Boot Collection in Japan, my agent is L’Idea, who also run the Strasburgo shops. They can be reached here: http://www.strasburgo.co.jp/
Also, we have boots in-stock at Baybrook, Andy House, Tomorrowland and Zepher.
I do not have a catalogue to send out as most of my production is made to order on request of shops.
Here, in America, we have a stock range which can be seen via direct contact. Please email me from the contact page here a direct message, and I will be able to speak directly.
thanks again! For shell cordovan I strongly recommend a simply routine of Renovateur from Saphir. Little more than a thimble full will do it…apply very lightly and brush with a horsehair brush to rejuvenate the finish. An occasional cream in the appropriate color can be used, but Renovateur is the go to product for me.
Another sizing question for you. I realize there is nothing like a real fitting, but I won’t be near one of your dealers in the near future. I have a low-volume foot – somewhat flat, but not that wide. I wear a 7 / 7 1/2 UK C width. Which lasts and sizes do you think would work?
Thanks for the note! Unfortunately, sounds like a pretty narrow foot. I’m not sure I’ve heard of a UK C width, but I’ll assume it’s relative to our B width. At this time, I do not offer a B sized last and have had little luck jimmying them to accomodate this. If this is the case, I’m afraid I have nothing really to offer…I just can’t fit a B at this time.
Ron, love the gunmetal chukka-how do you acheive and more importantly maintain such a shiny glossy bluish gray finish. My other cordovan shoes never have such a glossy fiinish. Would love any specific products or techniques to get such a shine
Dear Ron: I live in Colombia, South America and occasionally travel to the U.S. – mostly Florida and California. This time around I’m planning on purchasing a pair of size 10 Richmond boots and one pair of Balmoral cap toe boots. Please advise as to the most convenient locations that carry these items. Thank you in advance.
Thanks for the note. The Richmond Boot is one made exclusively for Leffot, in New York. You can contact them thru their blog at http://www.leffot.com. The Balmoral Boots are, at this time, sold out as far as I know. There is a possibility that Franco’s in Richmond (www.francos.com) has a few pair left, but these will not be available again until October 2012. As a final note, if you fit a 10 in the Richmond Boot, you would look for a 9 1/2 in the Bal Boot.